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August 27, 2007

Circumnavigating Chimana Grande

Marina life is part boat chores, part relaxation. It's an easy life but a bit monotonous when you're accustomed to being on the move. Two weeks have passed since our Angel Falls trip and we're getting marina fever. To our rescue comes veteran cruiser Pete on Neptune's Pride. Pete recommends a tour of Chimana Grande, an island just four miles north of Puerto La Cruz on the other side of Pozuelos Bay.

On the last Monday of August, we head out in our dinghies in the early morning calm. Our first stop is Cieneguita, a peaceful mangrove lagoon on the south side of Chimana Grande and a favorite anchorage of Neptune's Pride. We pull our dinghies onto a mud beach and hike up a steep hill overlooking the lagoon. The morning is steamy, with barely a breath of wind. We carefully ascend, slipping and sliding on shifty rocks while dodging cactus thorns. It's wet season and the gnats quickly discover the new menu item.

"Hey guys, over here!" they call to each other. "These humans are yummier than that dead fish we had last night. Tastes like chicken!" Our bug spray is, of course, at the bottom of the hill in the dinghy. After much scrambling and swatting, we're rewarded with a lovely view of three consecutive lagoons. The only thing missing from this idyllic vista is our boat bobbing on anchor.

Our journey around the island continues with a side trip to neighboring Chimana Segunda. The geological formations are grand in scale and I find myself wishing I had taken a college geology course. At sea level, striated rock emerges sharp and jagged from clear turquoise water. In contrast the island's hilltops are gently rounded, softened over time by Mother Nature. The arid landscape is shades of brown with a sparse freckling of green shrubbery and cactus.

After a few hours of exploring, our rumbling stomachs remind us that the lunch hour has arrived. We stop at Playa Puinare, one of several public beaches on Chimana Grande. This beach, being the nearest to the mainland, is crowded with families enjoying an outing before school resumes in September. We rent chairs for $1.25 apiece and find a shady spot to enjoy our picnic lunch.

Once our stomachs are full, Pete offers to watch our stuff while Nick and I hike to the top of the hill. Again, the path is shifting rock and cactus. The view is breathtaking, as is the hiking. The sun is brutal without any wind to stir the stifling heat. Below us the sea looks cool and inviting, so we make it a short hike. Back at the beach, we plunge into the water. Ah, so refreshing!

By midafternoon, we load up the dinghies and head back to the marina. It's been a lovely day and a much-needed break from marina monotony. We can't wait to get back out there on the big boat.

 

Looking across Cieneguita and nearby lagoons.

Looking from the Cieneguita anchorage toward Puerto La Cruz

I had to pull quite a few of these thorns out of my legs. Ouch!

Approaching Chimana Grande

Pete took this photo of us below the Chimana Segunda lighthouse.

Pelican taking flight

Our tour guide, Pete on Neptune's Pride

View of Pozuelos Bay

Playa Puinare

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