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February 18, 2007

Georgetown: Weathering the Big Blow

"Gentlemen, start your engines!" The command rings out from VHF radios across Elizabeth Harbour. This is the event we've all been waiting for--and dreading.

The worst cold front of the winter is on our doorstep. The wind has been blowing 20 knots out of the northwest all day, creating an uncomfortable fetch across the seven mile harbor. It's about 4:30 P.M. and the northern horizon is blue-gray and ominous. As a dark band of clouds approach, someone announces "35 knots at Hamburger Beach!" A few seconds later, another voice proclaims, "32 at Chat and Chill!" Oh shit, we're next!

Nick puts the boat in forward and applies some throttle. The wind line races toward us, and then the rigging is howling. A few waves even break over the bow and splash our cockpit dodger. We've never taken a wave across the cockpit in an anchorage before. This is crazy! Having just survived an anchor dragging incident a few nights ago, we're terrified of another mishap. We've deployed two anchors with lots of scope, but anything could happen.

Soon we hear boats on the radio who are dragging anchors. Up ahead, we see friends on Pelican go broadside to the wind and struggle to get their anchor up and redeployed. Behind us, a boat drifts away and has to reset. Down in the Red Shanks anchorage, Irish Fever's top-rated Rocna anchor drags. They motor around the harbor until the wind abates enough to re-anchor. An engine-less catamaran drags three anchors and grounds on the beach. They ask for assistance, and several captains leave their own vessels to help stabilize the grounded boat. On the radio, a desperate woman's voice pleads, "We need help. Someone help us!" All around us, boaters are in trouble and I feel sick to my stomach and helpless. This certainly is not the cruising dream we had envisioned back in Texas.

Fortunately the drama plays out before sunset, so by dark everyone is secure. After motoring into our anchors for two hours, we do anchor watches until the wind finally moderates after midnight. We're physically and emotionally exhausted, but safe.

 

 

The extremes of cruising: terrifying one day, relaxing the next

A strong cold front blows through Elizabeth Harbour with whitecapping waves and 35-knot winds.

The day after the storm: chatting and chilling with Alan and Gerri on a gorgeous day.

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