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January 23-29, 2007

Exuma Park

Warderick Wells

On Tuesday we depart Norman's Cay and travel 23 miles south to Warderick Wells in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. This park covers 176 square miles in the Exumas and is a no-take area. The more-protected north mooring field is full, so we're assigned a ball in the Emerald Rock area on the west side of the island. The weather is beautiful now, but we know a cold front will bring westerly winds in a few days.

After securing the boat to its mooring ball, we pop a few tops and jump in the water with our Wet Buns (floating chairs). Aaah... this is the life! The next day we snorkel on several reefs and see a variety of coral, a huge lobster, and a plump grouper that will never occupy a dinner plate.

On Thursday, the winds begin clocking to the southwest preceding the cold front. Although the Emerald Rock area is exposed to the west, we decide to "tough it out" so we can continue exploring the park. We get more than we bargain for though. The boat bucks up and down in the fetch like a rodeo bull. We attempt to get in our dinghy and go ashore, but have to abandon the effort when the boat nearly crushes the dinghy under its stern. For about 12 hours the boat rolls miserably in the fetch. We're safe, but uncomfortable. I have to put on my seabands and take a motion sickness pill so I can focus on the swaying computer screen without getting seasick.

Conditions improve on Friday, and we enjoy a hike around the park with our friends on Civil Twilight.

Caribbean Soul at Warderick Wells

 

Hiking down the steep and rocky trail with our boat in the background

A stone wall built by Loyalist settlers

"Nick's Trail"

Gerri (Civil Twilight) feeding birds at the park office

Caribbean Soul with Emerald Rock in the background

   

Cambridge Cay

With another cold front arriving Sunday, we are determined not to ride out this one in our current location. On Saturday, we make the short trip to the more protected anchorage in Cambridge Cay, also part of Exuma Park. We decide to enter by the south entrance, which requires visual piloting in good light with a high tide. We squeeze through a shallow area between a rocky point and coral heads. We make it--Whew! We later learn that a boat ran aground here the day before and several of the other boaters had to help pull it off the shoal.

We take Dakota ashore for a hike on Sunday. The trail provides a spectacular view of the Exuma Banks on the west and the Exuma Sound on the east. Dakota is soon a happy, wet ball of fur covered with sand and sticker burrs. Another sun shower on deck is required before he's allowed inside the boat.

By Monday afternoon, the frontal winds are subsiding and we decide to continue our journey south. With some apprehension, we agree to test our luck again and go out the south exit. We leave on the rising tide and follow our previous, successful track as shown on the chartplotter. Today's tide is not quite as high though, and this time we hit bottom. Oh #$%@! The boat powers forward stirring up a trail of sand... then we're free! But no--we bump again...then drift forward.... The other boats are probably watching our dilemma and saying, "Oh geez, we'll have to rescue another one." But this time we break loose and reach deeper water. That was a close call!

We're on our way to Big Major, where we intend to see for ourselves if pigs really can swim.

Is that a happy dog, or what?

Hiking on Cambridge Cay. Exuma Sound behind us.

Nick discovers a hammock on the beach.

View of Cambridge Cay anchorage

A bath and brushing for the dirty dog

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