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We haven't seen a grocery store, restaurant, fuel dock, or
trash bin since leaving Eleuthera 11 days ago. The Exuma cays
are beautiful, but remote and either uninhabited or privately
owned. We're ready for some civilization.
At the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, I enjoy being served a meal
that someone else cooks and serves on a plate that someone
else has to wash. The restaurant provides free Internet to
its customers. At virtually every table, there's an open laptop
and a boater eagerly reading e-mail, hoping the folks back
home haven't forgotten them.
Next we make the rounds at the settlement's three "super
markets." The supply boat arrived earlier in the day,
so the stores are doing a brisk business. The small grocery
stores are located within the residential areas, in small
buildings near or attached to the proprietor's homes. Imagine
going to someone's home and buying your groceries in their
garage. At the pink store, we find eggs and bread; at the
blue store, we purchase milk ($5.30 a quart--ouch!); and at
the Isle's general store, we find a good selection of produce.
We'll have a fresh salad tonight!
On the west side of Big Major spot is one of the area's big
attractions: a beach that is home to five swimming pigs. You
can bring your dinghy near the beach and the pigs will swim
out to take your treats. We come equipped with a bag of carrots
and a stick. As we approach, I wave a carrot in the air. "Here
little piggy. Look what I have!" Soon the dinghy is surrounded
by pigs, and one aggressive fellow tries to climb on board.
Hence, the need for the stick. As we motor away, we agree
that feeding swimming pigs is a unique experience we'd never
have had if we hadn't gone cruising.
Staniel Cay is also known for the Thunderball grotto, featured
in two James Bond movies and the Disney movie "Splash."
At slack tide, you can snorkel under a rocky outcrop and enter
a large cave. Sunlight streams through holes in the roof of
the cave, and a variety of colorful fish gather in the calm,
clear pool. The biggest treat is along the outer wall of the
grotto. A breathtaking array of coral flourish here. Even
Nick is impressed by the variety and healthy condition of
the coral.
After several enjoyable days back in civilization (if cavorting
with swimming pigs can be considered "civilized"),
we must decide where to be for a cold front forecast to arrive
early the following week. It's time to move south again.
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"Surrender your carrots and prepare to be boarded!"
"C'mon. Give me a bite, just one little bite."
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