|
On Saturday, July 14th, we depart Coche at 6:30 A.M. for
the 58-mile run to Bahia Redonda Marina in Puerto La Cruz
(PLC). The winds are light and the seas are flat, so it's
necessary to motor the entire trip. The autopilot steers the
boat all day and we make good time with a push from the current.
We have mixed emotions about reaching our destination. On
one hand, we'll be relieved of the stress of continuous traveling
and navigating into new harbors. Most importantly, we'll be
out of the hurricane zone and, in the unlikely event a storm
strays this far south, we'll have insurance coverage. On the
other hand, we'll be stuck in a crowded marina. After six
months of constant motion, we're suddenly hitting the brakes.
We brace ourselves for an emotional whiplash.
A few hours out of PLC, Gene on Magic Moment hails
us on the VHF. The marina is putting us in a slip next to
them, so he and Carol offer to meet us on arrival. The marina
slips are all Med-moor style, meaning that there are no finger
piers or pilings separating the slips. Instead, you tie one
end of the boat to cleats on the dock and the other end to
mooring balls in the water. As we approach, the dockmaster
directs us into a small space between the 60+ foot Magic
Moment and a large catamaran. You've got to be kidding!
The wind, having been light all day, is now gusting. We hold
our breath and tuck in our elbows as we squeeze into the small
gap. To get on and off the boat, we must climb over the bow
rail and jump over the water to the dock. Getting Dakota off
the boat is particularly treacherous, and he doesn't make
the leap of faith willingly.
Bahia Redonda is one of several marinas in the canals of
the El Morro Tourist Complex, an upscale development with
waterside homes and several reputable boatyards. The neighborhood
outside the marina is poor and gringos are advised not to
walk through the area, especially at night. During the daytime
in the company of others, a short walk somewhere is safe.
No one anchors in Puerto La Cruz because of security issues,
although one has to wonder if these concerns aren't exaggerated
to the benefit of the marinas. The marina is gated and guards
are posted in towers along the breakwater. English-speaking
taxi drivers cater to the marina tenants and will take you
anywhere for just a few bucks an hour. Basically, we follow
the same precautions we would take in a large U.S. city. Certainly
there are risks here, but there are risks in any country,
including our own.
Once the dock lines are secured, we don't miss a beat joining
the social activities at the marina. Sunday afternoon is the
weekly Mexican Train domino tournament, bringing in about
20 players. Monday night is the BBQ potluck. Every other week,
a free bus takes boaters to a shopping destination. We take
the bus to Makro, a Sam's-style warehouse with a wide variety
of consumer products and food. We also explore outside the
marina. A modern shopping mall, Plaza Mayor, is accessible
by dinghy via the canals. The downtown "fresh market"
is also a popular place to buy fresh vegetables, fish, poultry,
and beef. All items are laid out in the open air and unrefrigerated.
Swatting flies away from your intended purchase does take
a little getting used to though.
We also take a taxi to the local chandleries and find them
well-stocked with the usual items. The problem, we learn,
is getting boat parts that are not stock items, such as parts
for your engine. Customs in Venezuela is corrupt and will
try to charge a 40-percent tax, even though the law allows
for duty-free importation of repair parts for "yachts
in transit." We have little hope of repairing our anchor
windlass, and getting a new one into the country is going
to be a challenge.
As of this writing, we're getting quotations for various
boats projects and researching inland tours. We also plan
a trip back to Texas in the next few months. In the meantime,
we're enjoying the luxury of air conditioning and American
cable TV. So far, Venezuela has exceeded our expectations
and we're happy with our decision to come here. The big question
now is what to do after hurricane season. Will we go east
or west?
|
Threading our way through two out-islands,
with the mainland in
the distance.
Passing Isla Caracas del Oeste
|
