March 2008: Part 4

Mérida South

We spent two days of our Mérida vacation in the area south of town along the Chama River. Gioia took us on a full-day excursion that included tours of:

• Jají, a reconstructed colonial town
• Hacienda el Carmen, a coffee plantation
• Trapiche (sugar mill)
• San Jose in the Pueblos del Sur

We were especially fascinated by the coffee plantation and sugar mill, which employ equipment and techniques used in past centuries. Although the coffee plantation wasn't working that day, at the sugar mill we got to see the operation in full swing. Hot smoke and burning sugar assaulted our eyes and noses as we stepped under the tin roof of the trapiche. Hundreds of bees buzzed over vats of gooey green syrup. It was hard to believe this stuff could ever be appetizing or that such primitive techniques are still in use.

The trip to San Jose took us up a narrow paved road of constant switchbacks. Gioia cautiously beeped her horn as she approached each blind turn. There seemed to be a memorial every mile or so to remember folks who had not survived their trip on this dangerous road.

On another day, we hired Jose and Pablo of Fanny Tours to take us paragliding off the cliffs of Tierra Negra. These guys have been jumping off mountains for the past 20 years, so we were in capable hands. Plus they both spoke English, a big help when the instructions might prevent a tumble down several thousand feet of mountainside. The tandem equipment included a harness and chair for the passenger, which was clipped onto the pilot's equipment.

"Running, running, running--very important for safety!" Jose instructed as we prepared for take off. Imagine running with a chair and another person strapped to your back, and you don't dare fall down as you reach the cliff's edge. Actually, it wasn't scary at all but quite peaceful gliding on the thermals over the Chama River valley.

Paragliding over the Chama River valley.

"Running, running, running!"

Over the edge..."Now sit!"

Nick and Jose

Nick looking down at his feet and the ground below.

The trapiche (sugar mill)

First the juice is pressed out of the cane.

Pressed cane is dried and used to fuel the furnace.

The juice is boiled in a series of 4 copper vats of increasing heat.

After cooling, the sugar is transferred to a mold.

These 1-kilo blocks, called panela or papelon, are sold as is or refined as white sugar.

Town of Jají

Church in Jají

Coffee beans are ready to pick when they turn red.

Coffee beans with red skin removed.

At Hacienda El Carmen, coffee beans are laid out on the patio to dry.

This machine removes the skin from coffee beans.

Memorial for six lives lost on the road to San José.

Chama River