May 2006, Part 2

Floridays

May 13 - 18
Key West

On Monday, May 15th, we leave the Galleon Marina for cheaper accommodations in the Key West city mooring field. A low pressure system moves in and brings two days of rain. The locals are thrilled since they haven't had a good rain in months, but we're going stir crazy. On Thursday, the sun finally comes out and we spend the day dinghying around town. For our last night in Key West, we take Dakota to Key West Bight, and the folks at Turtle Kraal's allow him seating in their restaurant. Keep in mind that chickens and roosters roam the streets of Key West, so why not a Cocker Spaniel? Heads turn as Dakota struts down the board walk in his bright yellow life vest. By Key West canine standards, Dakota is bit hoity-toity.

Dakota's first restaurant, Turtle Kraal's in Key West

Sailing in the beautiful Hawk Channel

May 19 - 21
Marathon, Boot Key Harbor

On Friday we drop our mooring in Key West and travel 45 nautical miles up the Hawk Channel to Marathon. The water is turquoise green; I have to pinch myself to believe we're sailing in such beautiful water in our own boat. The north wind allows us to sail or motorsail most of the way to Marathon.

Hundreds of boats are anchored in Boot Key Harbor--more boats than we've ever seen in one location. We pick up a city mooring ball, and then head for the Dockside Lounge for beer and conch fritters. At the dinghy dock, some locals tell us about the local "net" that meets on VHF 68 at 9:00 A.M. every morning. Boot Key Harbor has a community atmosphere and is home to many liveaboards.

On Saturday night, Shelli Braynard once again takes us under her wing. We have a pleasant dinner at a waterfront restaurant with live music. Todd, your wife is a gem!

On Sunday, the marina loans Nick a bicycle so he can pedal to West Marine (Sunday is the only day you can't get there by dinghy). While doing laundry, Deanna meets a local woman who has cruised and lived on a boat for 34 years. She seems quite content with her life and encourages us to hold on to the dream.

Sunset in Boot Key Harbor

May 22
Key Largo, Rodriquez Key

On Monday, we depart for Rodriquez Key located just off Key Largo. Once again, the wind is out of the north forcing us to motor all day. As we approach the key, we notice another boat anchored off the point. As we get closer, we notice the boat is pointed stern to the wind and inside some shallow water buoys. The familiar red Tow Boat/US boat soon arrives and pulls the wayward vessel off the shoals. We drop our anchor for the first time in Florida waters. It drags on the first try, but holds on the second attempt. No Texas mud here!

Several years ago, we did some SCUBA diving in Key Largo. As we watch dive boats zipping back and forth to the reefs, we question why we're in such a hurry. But the dive gear remains securely stowed in our v-berth.

Leaving Rodriquez Key

May 23 - 28
Key Biscayne, Crandon Park

The weatherman forecasts a southeast wind on Tuesday, but once again he deceives us. There's not a breath of wind as we motor across the smooth water of Rodriquez Key just after sunrise. Later in the day, the wind picks up--from the northeast as usual. We see several boats heading east to the Bahamas, and we berate ourselves for going the wrong way.

After motoring 50 nautical miles, we arrive at Crandon's Marina in Key Biscayne and pick up a mooring ball. We have a fabulous view of the Miami skyline and it's 5 o'clock somewhere! This area was hard hit by both Katrina and Wilma. The restaurant, showers, and laundromat were destroyed. A bus ride is required to go anywhere.

We plan to depart on Thursday, but a stream of moisture is pouring out of the Gulf across south Florida and it rains all day. On Friday, thunderstorms over Miami once again deter our plans. However, the delay has a silver lining. We meet Jim and Roxanne Farrell, S/V Dawn Dancer. They're in Miami taking care of personal business (and they have a car!). On Saturday night, they drive us to Coconut Grove. This place is hopping all night long, and we have a blast.

On Sunday, our 7th wedding anniversary, we join Jim and Roxanne for a tour of the steamy Everglades. We observe alligators, crocodiles, swimming birds, and turtles in their natural environment. Jim notes that the wildlife has greatly improved since he visited the Everglades a few years ago.

Sunset view of Miami from Key Biscayne

Dinner in Coconut Grove with new friends Jim and Roxanne

Alligator pokes his head from under bridge in Everglades

On "safari" in the Everglades

"The Hammock" in the Everglades

Thunderstorm builds over the Everglades

May 29 -31
Ft. Pierce

On Memorial Day we decide the weather forecast won't get much better for the next few days, so we make our escape from Miami. Our destination is 125 nautical miles north to Fort Pierce. This will be our first overnight sail with just the two of us. The wind is supposed to be southeast before switching north around 5 knots after midnight. We motor out of Miami's Government Cut as holiday power boaters bounce us in their wakes. When we reach the Gulf Stream, we pick up the northbound current, but the east wind is too light and we must motorsail to maintain our desired speed.

By midafternoon, Miami and Fort Lauderdale are cloaked in a black cloud of thunderstorms. The storms stay inland, but the wind offshore clocks to the north at 10-15 knots. As nighttime approaches, the north wind and the seas build in the Gulf Stream. Sailors know that you don't want to be in the Gulf Stream in a strong north wind, and yet here we are being slammed. We alter our course closer to shore and conditions improve somewhat. Nick and I take three-hour shifts, and several ships pass within a mile or two during the night.

By 8:30 A.M. on Tuesday morning we're tied up safely at the Harbortown Marina. It's nap time. The marina has a nice restaurant, showers, laundry, boaters' lounge, Wi-Fi, and a pool. The Publix supermarket and West Marine are a short walk away. We decide to stay here a few days.

June 1st is the start of what is predicted to be another busy hurricane season. After covering 1400 miles in the last month, we long to stay put for awhile. However, we must travel 300 miles further north to be out of our insurance company's hurricane box by July 1st, and the Chesapeake is nearly 1000 miles via the ICW.

Leaving Miami via Dodge Island to Government Cut

Passing ship in Government Cut